ERZURUM

Erzurum, 193 km east of Erzincan and the largest city in eastern Anatolia, sprawls on a high plateau at an altitude of 1,950 meters. As you enter the city, the large Aziziye monument commemorating the Turkish-Russian war will catch your eye. Although the collection in the archaeological museum reveals much of the city’s history and ancient origins, it is Erzurum’s architecture, which is in fact the city’s best museum. The city walls and fortress are reminiscent of the period of Byzantine rule. And particularly important are the remaining Seljuk buildings – brilliant examples of a fascinating aesthetic. The Ulu Mosque, built in 1179, has an unusual form with seven wide naves. The Cifte Minareli Medrese, or theological college, built by the Seljuk Sultan Alaeddin Keykubat in 1253, astonishes with elaborate stone carvings on its portal and its majestic double minarets. Behind the Cifte Minareli Medrese stands the Uc Kümbetler, a group of three tombs, the most notable; that of Emir Saltuk. The 13th century Hatuniye Türbesi, or mausoleum, was built for Sultan Alaeddin Keykubat’s daughter. The beautiful portal and richly tiled minaret of the 13th century, Yakutiye Medrese reveals another facet of Seljuk architecture. You can also see Ottoman buildings in Erzurum; the great architect Sinan left his mark on the city with the Lala Mustafa Pasa Mosque.

 

PALANDOKEN

 

While wandering around the city, notice the local black stone (Erzurum, Oltu Tasi) which is used in jewellery. The shops on the upper floor of the Tashan (Rustem Pasa Caravanserai) offer the best selection of items. A road through splendid mountain scenery leads to the winter sports resort of Palandöken, only 6 km from Erzurum. This center has hotels, the longest ski run and the best snow quality in Turkey, and is a favourite haunt of expert skiers. The glassy Tortum Lake, 120 km from Erzurum towards Artvin and the Black Sea, may be the most tranquil sight in all of Turkey. Be sure to see the Tortum Waterfalls at the north end of the lake, plunging from a height of 47 meters.