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MOUNTAINEERING IN
TURKEY
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A glance at a
topographical map of Turkey immediately reveals that this is a
country of mountains. Rising in all four directions, mountains
encircle the peninsula of Anatolia. A part of the Alpine Himalayan
mountain range, Turkey has mountainous regions of different
geological formations. The North Anatolian range skirts the
Mediterranean shore.
Turkey's magnificent mountains and forests are mostly undeveloped,
existing as wonderful natural preserves for an extraordinary variety
of wildlife, flora and fauna. Two of Turkey's most famous peaks are
volcanoes, both inactive, Mt. Erciyes in Kayseri in Central Anatolia
(3917 m) and Mt. Agri (Mt. Ararat 5137 m) in the East. Other well
known mountain ranges are the Rize-Kaskar (3932 m) in the Eastern
Black Sea region, Nigde-Aladag (3756 m) in the Central Taurus range,
and the Cilo and Sat Mountains (4136 m) near Hakkari in the Eastern
Taurus.
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The mountainous nature
of the country has influenced its cultural evolution. For centuries,
nomads and semi nomadic peoples have migrated annually to the fresh
pastures of the higher elevations in the summer. These alpine
meadows, called yayla, still represent a firm tie to traditional
culture.
For climbers and
those interested in mountain geography, Turkey offers a wealth of
exploration. Glaciers, volcanoes, and peculiar geological formations
such as karst; prove irresistible to researchers and students of
geology. The challenging terrain offers great opportunities for
aficionados of outdoor sports who find interesting experiences on
the mountains of Eastern, Central and Southern Turkey. A list of
resources to aid an expedition, at whatever level, is to be found
below.
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The Great Agri
Mountain (5137 m.)
Rising from the
common borders of Turkey and Iran, Mt. Agri (Ararat), an inactive
volcano capped year round with ice and snow, reaches 5137 meters.
The Old Testament records that it was on this mountain that Noah's
Ark came to rest after the great flood. Southwest of the mountain,
the Little Mt. Agri (Ararat) reaches up to 3896 meters. The
Serdarbulak lava plateau (2600 m) stretches out between the two
pinnacles. Whatever your motivation for visiting this region and
exploring the mountain range, climbing the spectacular Agri (Ararat)
is a challenging and rewarding experience.
In the summer,
the weather in the area and on Mt. Agri (Ararat) itself is sunny,
warm and dry. However, in the winter and spring, cold and harsh
conditions prevail, and mountain climbers occasionally face
blizzards and turbulent weather. July, August and September are the
months when most world mountain climbers come to the area and when
the climb up Agri (Ararat) is most enjoyable. Despite the usual
sunny and clear weather at that time of year, high altitude mountain
weather prevails above 3000 meters. The Southern face of the
mountain offers the easiest and safest ascent to the summit with the
best routes and communication, transportation and safety
considerations. It is not advised to climb Mt. Agri (Ararat) alone
and without a guide.
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Getting There
The
Trabzon-Erzurum-Teheran international transit highway, an excellent
asphalt road, skirts the Western and Southern flanks of Agri
(Ararat) before heading into Iran. Dogubayazit, 270 km from Erzurum,
and nearby Igdir, the two closest towns to the mountain, are
situated on this route. Daily planes, trains, and buses connect
Erzurum with Ankara.
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Regional
Attractions
The area
surrounding Agri (Ararat) has retained its natural beauty and the
local population still engages in the traditional lifestyle. During
the summer months, whole villages move to the yayla, the summer
pasture, to find fresh grazing for their herds of sheep, goats,
cattle and horses. Women continue to weave carpets and kilims in
time-honoured designs; Örtülü village is particularly renowned as a
centre of beautiful handicrafts. Other nearby tourist attractions
include the Ishakpasa Palace, a fabulous 18th century castle of a
local potentate awaits for the visitors.
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The Cilo-Sat
Mountains (4136 m.)
The Cilo-Sat
Mountains, within the Southeastern Hakkari province, are the Eastern
extension of the Toros (Taurus) mountain chain, which stretches from
West to East along Turkey's Southern boundaries. This range of
mountains in fact forms the Westernmost section of the Himalayan
mountain belt. At 4136 meters, the Uludoruk ( ) summit is the
highest in the Cilo mountains; Çatalkaya (Samdi), which rises to
3794 meters, crowns the Sat mountains. Resembling the Alps in both
general appearance and glacier topography, the Cilo-Sat mountains
are the areas in Turkey most affected by glaciers. The high
altitudes of the mountains testify to the effects of glacial
formation and water erosion. Of the ten uniquely shaped glaciers,
the largest, Izbirak, measures five kilometres in length, 500-600
metres in width and reaches 100 meters in depth.
A wide arid expanse
stretches across the Southern bases of the mountain range. The
highlands, in contrast, receive plentiful precipitation during the
winter months. In between crests and summits, green and fertile
valleys dotted with rural settlements, enjoy a temperate climate
that makes them ideal for vine and fruit agriculture.
Above the low
valleys, alpine meadows blanket the mountain slopes at altitudes
between 2000 and 3100 metres. Herds of domestic animals, which graze
in these pastures, make up the primary economic activity of the
region.
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Trips and Climbs
Arduous and
elevated summits, high glaciers, glacial rivers and fast moving
streams combine to make the Cilo-Sat mountains both a fascinating
geographic and geological site of world-wide importance. The best
time for summer excursions is during June, July, August and
September. For winter climbing, February and March are the most
suitable months.
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Getting There
To reach the Cilo-Sat
mountains, travel to Van from Ankara by road, rail or air and then
follow the 245-km long highway to Hakkari. Serpil village offers one
route for an ascent of Uludoruk; another route Westside of Cilo, is
Dezköy.
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Regional
Attractions
A vast yayla
culture has evolved on the Cilo and Sat mountains, and the summer
migration of the colourfully clad local population to the high
grazing pastures is a wonderful sight. Mountain glaciers, swiftly
running rivers brimming with fish and beautiful glacier lakes are a
few of the area's natural wonders.
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The
Kackar Mountains (3932 m.)
In the rainy and
lush landscapes of Northeastern Turkey, the Kaskar mountains form
the Northern section of the Anatolian mountain chain. The Kaskar-Kavron
summit, at an altitude of 3932 meters, is the highest point in the
range. Extensive glacier and water erosion have given these
mountains their craggy, rugged look, and they are known for the
complexity and power of the streams and rivers which rush down to
the lower altitudes. In fact, this range is the third most important
glacial region in Turkey following the Agri (Ararat) and Cilo-Sat
mountains. The geological and mountaineering aspects of the Kaskars
contribute to their importance in Turkey's economy and tourism.
The region enjoys
an almost sub-tropical climate of temperate yet rainy weather with
an average temperature of 14 C. The lowest temperature, 7 C., falls
in the month of January while August sees the hottest days reaching
a maximum recorded temperature of 22.6 C.
The Kaskars rise
between the shores of the Black Sea to the North and the Çoruh river
valley to the South. On the Northern flank, an immense variety of
vegetation flourishes in the rainy climate. Up to 500 metres above
sea level, tea plantations and citrus orchards cover the hillsides.
Chestnut, hornbeam, beech and other large-leafed trees forest the
slopes to 750 metres. Between 750- 1500 metres of elevation, pines
mix in with the large-leafed trees until gradually they remain the
only species of tree from 1500-2000 metres. Alpine meadows and other
grassy vegetation cover the ground above 2100 metres. On the
Southern faces of the Kaskars, which receive strong sunshine and
less precipitation, the agriculture is based on the cultivation of
fruit and vines. On the Northern side, in the higher elevations,
meadows of wild flowers and grasses blanket the slopes up to
elevations of 2300 metres
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Trips and Climbs
The Altiparmak,
Kavron and Çarsamba mountains are the principal peaks of the Kaskars.
Both the North and South faces of the Altiparmak and Kavron can be
scaled but Çarsamba should only be attempted from the North face. It
is imperative to use a local guide when climbing the Kaskars.
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The Toros
Mountains (3756 m.)
The Toros (Taurus)
Mountains are the Westernmost branches of the great mountain chain
that stretches across all of Asia - the Himalayan mountain belt. The
Turkish section of this massive mountain range follows the Southern
border of Anatolia and is itself made up of four major sections, the
Western, Central, Southern and South-eastern (Taurus) Toros ranges.
The highest peaks rise out of the Central and Southeastern branches,
a stretch of mountains, which are rugged, magnificent and arduous to
climb.
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The Toros Ala
Mountains
Forming part
of the Central (Taurus) Toros range, the Ala range runs from the
Southwest to the Northeast for approximately 50 kilometres and
boasts the region's highest peak, Demirkazik that stretches to 3756
metres. Other high summits include Kizilkaya in the centre (3725 m),
a peak that reaches 3688 metres in the South, and Mt. Vayvay in the
East (3565 m). This long range, situated in the provinces of Nigde,
Kayseri and Adana, rises between Lake Ecemis and the Zamanti river.
The geology of the
area is responsible for the interesting rock formations and
waterfalls. The erosion of limestone has created a fascinating
karstic topography and hydrography, especially in the Yedigöller
valley, where karstic underground rivers and caverns collect the
surface water. Both the Mediterranean and Anatolian weather systems
influence the climate of the Ala Mountains, bringing warm summers
and cool winters to the area.
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Trips and climbs
The best season to
climb the mountains is during May, June, July and August when the
alpine meadows of the higher elevations are rich in vegetation.
Researchers and
mountaineers ascending the Ala Mountains usually begin their climb
from either Çamardi or Çukurbag village. Those attempting to climb
the Demirkazik summit depart from Demirkazik village. Both of these
villages lie 65 km from Nigde and can be reached by asphalt road.
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Regional
attractions
The yaylas of the
Toros (Taurus) Ala Mountains are the summer homes of entire villages
and the summer grazing of herds of animals. Be sure to see the
rounding up of all the animals for milking. Traditionally women of
these encampments have produced some of Turkey's most beautiful
carpets and kilims, and it is often possible to see a carpet still
in progress.
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Mt. Erciyes (3917
m.)
One of Turkey's
most important mountaineering and winter sports centres, Mount
Erciyes rises from the South of the Kayseri valley. The Sultan
Marshes lie to its West and to the South falls the Develi Valley.
Its summit is always covered in snow and ice, Mt. Erciyes ranks as
central Anatolia's tallest volcano.
Approximately 18
kilometres in diameter and covering an area of 1000 square
kilometres, the mountain's stratification and geology make it a
fascinating geographical formation. The region's climate, influenced
by that of the Anatolian plateau, is considered typical of steppe
geography. Certainly the winter brings considerable snowfall to the
higher elevations. The northern side of the mountain enjoys a
somewhat more temperate climate encouraging the cultivation of vast
areas of vine and fruit orchards between 1100 and 1600 metres. Above
that altitude, vast meadows stretch far into the distance. The
higher elevations display typical alpine vegetation. Herds of
animals graze year round on the East, North and West slopes of the
mountain.
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Trips and Climbs
Mountaineers
attempt Mt. Erciyes either on the Northwestern flank or from the
South and find the best climbing in June, July, August, and
September.
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Regional
Attractions
Tourists visiting
the area should also see the fantastic rock formations, underground
cities and fabulous frescoes in rock carved churches in neighbouring
Cappadocia. The Sultan Marshes, a habitat for many different species
of birds, has fortunately been designated a national park and
wildlife preserve.
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Mt. Nemrut (3050
m.)
Turkey can in fact,
boast of two peaks called Nemrut. The one
near Adiyaman in the Southeast is primarily of historical and
archaeological interest, home for over 2000 years to the colossal
stone heads of King Antiochos I and a number of classical deities.
The other Mt. Nemrut in Eastern Anatolia is well known for its
geological formations, and for mountaineering purposes; the more
interesting of the two peaks.
An extinct volcano,
the Tatvan Mt. Nemrut ascends to 3050 m. It is located within the
province of Bitlis, rising from the South-western shore of Lake Van
and entering the district of Ahlat to the North. Mt. Nemrut is the
Southernmost and youngest of the chain of volcanoes in Eastern
Anatolia. A strato-type volcano, it began erupting during the fourth
geological era and continued to be active until 1441 A.D. As a
result of the volcanic eruptions of Mt. Nemrut the single Van-Mus
river basin was divided into two separate basins.
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Trips and Climbs
Treks up Mt. Nemrut
begin on the mountain's Southeastern flank at Tatvan. Climbers reach
the South or Southeastern side of the crater after an easy hike of
4-5 hours. Those who reach this point have the rare chance to see
the wondrous crater of this inactive volcano. For those who find the
climb up the crater too strenuous, four-wheel drive vehicles can
reach the summit from either Ahlat or Tatvan.
Mt. Nemrut is bare
of vegetation except in the South, which has groves of oak and birch
trees. Summer (June-September) is the best season for expeditions up
Mt. Nemrut. Hikers who climb to the crater and summit from the
Southeast or Eastern face of the mountain are rewarded with
wonderful views of Lake Van.
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Suphan Mountain
(4058 m.)
Suphan Mountain, a
magnificent dormant volcano rises from the Northwest shores of Lake
Van.
Throughout the winter,
snowfalls on Süphan reach a depth of three to four metres. The
mountain's steeply inclined slopes and snow blanket combine to make
it a good location for "Heli-skiing" - using helicopters to drop you
off on the slopes for an adventure of high mountain skiing.
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Trips and Climbs
The easily
accessible Southern and Eastern flanks of Süphan, both offering
spectacular views, are the preferred faces for ascending the
mountain.
To climb from the
Eastern flank take the coast road that circles Lake Van. In the
stretch between Adilcevaz and Erciyes turn North to Aydinlar village.
From there you continue on to Kisgilli village where you can hire a
guide to lead you in your ascent.
The climb from the
South begins at the village of Harmantepe.
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The Bey Mountains
(3086 m.)
The Western branch
of the Toros (Taurus) mountains, the Bey Mountain range, is located
in the province of Antalya. The crest of the range parallels the
North- South line of the Western shore of the Gulf of Antalya. With
altitudes ranging between 600 and 3086 metres, these mountains offer
geologists and geographers many peculiar morphological
characteristics. Tekedorugu, Bakirlidag, Tahtalidag and
Kizlarsivrisi summits are particularly remarkable.
The highest point
in the mountains is Mt. Kizlarsivrisi (3086m), and climbers reach it
through the cedar forested Çamçukuru valley. The best approach to
the valley is by road inland from Antalya to Elmali. Antalya, of
course, can be reached from Izmir, Istanbul and Ankara by land, air
and sea routes.
Tahtali mountain,
West of Kemer, offers another interesting ascent. Rising to an
elevation of 2360 metres, pine and deciduous forests cover the
slopes up to an altitude of 2000-m. Bare meadow stretch to the
summit.
The climb up Mt.
Tahtaly begins at Sogukpinar, a short drive from Kemer. From there a
combination of walking and climbing brings you to a place to make
camp. The final ascent is carried out on the flank facing the coast
and offers a spectacular and ever-changing view.
Although it is
possible to organise trips to the Bey Mountains all year round;
April, May, and June offer both a temperate climate and a chance to
experience the richest vegetation.
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The Bolkar
Mountains (3524 m.)
Continuing the
line of summits in a Southeasterly direction, the Bolkar Mountains
are bounded by the Göksu river to the West and the Pozanti river to
the East. The Northern parts of the mountain lie in Nigde province
while the Southern peaks rise in Mersin province.
These mountains
exhibit interesting geological characteristics. Made of sedimentary
material such as limestone and dolomites, the range reveals
excellent examples of nappes, or folds in the layers of rocks. There
are vast formations of karst as well as landscapes that reveal the
effects of glacier and water erosion. Despite this erosion, no real
water network has developed on the mountains. Because of the
sedimentary nature of the rocks, water is absorbed creating large
areas of karst, such as Pozanti and Sekerpinari.
The highest peaks
of the Balkier are: Medetsiz (3524 m), Kefirdagi (3475 m),
Koyunasagi (3426 m), Tahtakaya (3372 m) and Ederkaya (3347 m).
The Northern flank
receives the most exposure to snow and glacier formation; it is
nevertheless the best route for an ascent to the highest summits of
the Bolkar.
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The Munzur
Mountains (3462 m.)
The Northeastern
extension of the Central Toros (Taurus) range, the Mercan range,
straddles both the Tunceli and Erzincan provinces. Mt. Akbaba, at
3462 metres, is the highest summit in the Mercandagi range. The
limestone geology of these mountains creates their very rugged
profile.
Erzincan, a major
city North of the mountain ranges and accessible by air, rail and
road, is the base from which to attempt an ascent on the North face.
Those wishing to
climb the mountain from the South begin their trek at Ovacik in the
middle of the Munzur mountains. Climbers entering from this point
can reach the highest summits of the Munzur. Ovacik lies 70
kilometres from Erzincan and is accessible by a road which follows
the banks of the Munzur valley. The Munzur River, which rushes
through a national park, tempts tourists with superb fresh fish and
beautiful mountain scenery.
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