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The
central Anatolian plateau, ochre hued, cleft by
ravines and dominated by volcanic peaks, forms the
heartland of Turkey. Covered with wheat fields and
outlined with ranks of poplars the boldly contoured
steppe has a solitary majesty. This plateau was one
of the cradles of human civilization. At Catalhoyuk
remains of settlements from as early as the eighth
millennium B.C. have been unearthed. The homeland of
many people and the historic battleground of East
and West, here the Hattis, Hittites, Phrygians,
Galatians, Romans, Byzantines, Seljuks and Ottomans
all fought for their sovereignty and established
their rule. In the 11th century the migrating Turks
from the east made the plateau their own. During its
turbulent history Central Anatolia has endured
invasion by great conquerors such as Alexander the
Great and Tamerlane. In the course of ten millennia
of habitation the denizens of the area have
reflected in their art - from the vigorous paintings
of Catalhoyuk to the confident lines of Seljuk
architecture, to more recently, the impressive
modern form of Ataturk's Mausoleum - the dramatic
contours of the surrounding landscape. The seat of
Turkey's government in the strategic heart of
central Anatolia, Ankara is the city selected by
Mustafa Kemal
Ataturk, the republic's founder, to house the
capital of the newly politically defined country. Though
thoroughly modern in appearance Ankara's history and
that of the surrounding area dates back to the
Bronze Age and the Hatti civilization. In the second
millennium B.C. the Hittites followed as lords of
the land and were succeeded in turn by the Phrygians,
Lydians and Persians. In the third century B.C., the
Galatians, a Celtic race, made Ankara their capital.
It was then known as Ancyra, meaning anchor.
The
Romans and then the Byzantines held this strategic
expanse of land until 1073 when the Seljuk Turks
commanded by Alpaslan conquered it. Just over three
centuries later in 1402, the city, then but a small
outpost, passed into the hands of the Ottomans led
by Beyazit 1. After the first World War, Ankara
assumed a prominent position at the center of
Ataturk's national existence, and the War of
Independence that liberated the Turkish homeland
from the domination of foreign powers. On the 13th
of October, 1923, Ankara was declared the capital of
the new Republic of Turkey. Dominating the modern
part of the city, much of it constructed since
Ankara's rise to prominence, is the imposing
limestone Anitkabir, the mausoleum of Kemal Ataturk.
Completed in 1953, this fusion of ancient and modern
architectural concepts testifies to the power and
grace of Turkish architecture. A museum at Anitkabir
displays some of Ataturk's personal items and
documents. His house in Cankaya, next to the
Presidential Palace, is open on Sunday afternoons.
The oldest parts of the city surround the ancient
hisar or citadel. Within the walls, the 12th century
Alaeddin Mosque although much rebuilt by the
Ottomans, still boasts fine Seljuk woodwork. Many
interesting traditional Turkish houses have been
restored in the area, and some have found new life
as art galleries or attractive restaurants serving
local dishes.
Close to the gate, Hisar Kapisi, the beautifully
restored bedestan (covered bazaar), houses the Museum
of Anatolian Civilizations with its priceless
collection of Paleolithic, Neolithic, Hatti, Hittite,
Phrygian, Urartian and Roman artifacts. It is open
every day except Monday. Outside the citadel the
13th century Arsianhane Mosque and the 14th century
Ahi Elvan Mosque are worth visiting. The legacy of
Roman times - the third century A.D. public baths,
the fourth century Julian Column and the second
century Corinthian style, Temple of Augustus - is
all located in an area below the citadel, near Ulus
Meydani (Nation Square). The sole surviving "Political
Testament of Augustus", a statement detailing the
achievements of the Emperor Augustus, remains
inscribed on the wall of his temple in. At one time
every temple dedicated to him throughout the Roman
Empire bore this document; this is the only complete
copy in existence today. In the fifth century the
Byzantines converted the temple into a church. Near
the citadel excavations of a Roman theater continue.
In the same vicinity stands the 15th century mosque
and mausoleum of Haci Bayram. From Ulus Meydani,
with its equestrian statue of Ataturk, continue down
Ataturk Boulevard to the Ethnographic Museum which
houses magnificent Seljuk doors of carved wood, and
other artifacts of daily life.
Nearby
the Sculpture and Painting Museum illustrates the
history of the Turkish fine arts. The biggest mosque
in Ankara graces the Kocatepe quarter. Kocatepe
Mosque was built between 1976 and 1987, and is in
the Ottoman architectural style. Ankara has an
active artistic and cultural life with- world class
performances of ballet, theater, opera and folk
dancing. The city is especially well known for its
Philharmonic Orchestra which attracts a loyal
following. Ankara hosts two international festivals
in April: "The Arts and Music Festival", and the
world-famous "April 23rd International Children's
Festival". Visitors to the city usually like to
browse through the old shops in Cikrikcilar Yokusu
near Ulus. On the street of coppersmiths, Bakircilar
Carsisi, you can find many interesting old and new
items, not only of copper but jewelry, carpets,
costumes, antiquities and embroidery. A walk up the
hill to the Citadel Gate takes you past many
interesting stalls and vendors selling spices, dried
fruits, nuts and all manner of produce.
Modern shopping areas are mostly found in Kizilay,
on Tunali Hilmi Avenue and in the recently completed Atakule
Tower in Cankaya. The top of Atakule, at 125 meters,
offers a magnificent view over the whole city. Its
excellent revolving restaurant allows you to enjoy
the complete view in a leisurely fashion. In the new
Karum shopping mall, in Kavaklidere, some of
Turkey's most chic clothing stores tempt the passer-by.
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