On
the opposite, northern shore of the Sea of Marmara, Tekirdag is an important
commercial harbor. From both sides of this modern city of lovely promenades
stretch beautiful sandy beaches. A happy mixture of sunflower fields and
vineyards cover the surrounding area. The most important architectural
monument is the Sinan-designed Rustem Pasa Mosque, built by Suleyman the
Magnificent's Grand Vizier in 1554. The Archaeology and Ethnography Museum
displays an extensive collection of artifacts from the area. The Rakoczy
Museum occupies the house where the Hungarian prince, Rakoczy Ferench 11
(1676-1735), who fought for his people's liberation, lived out the last
years of his life. The Namik Kemal Memorial (1840-1888) honors the birthplace
of the Turkish National Poet. Sixty kilometers west of Tekirdag, the holiday
center of Sarkoy and Murefte is a renowned wine tasting region; beautiful
vineyards cover the entire area, and the city hosts a wine festival every
year.
North
of Tekirdag on the border between Greece and Turkey, Edirne was for some
years the Ottoman capital, and in the 18th century one of the seven largest
cities in Europe. On a verdant plain of poplar trees near the junction
of the Tunca and Meric Rivers, this graceful historical city welcomes visitors
as they make their way to Istanbul and other points east. The people of
the Edirne area trace their origins beyond the rule of the Macedonians.
The Roman emperor Hadrian rebuilt the city and renamed it Hadrianople after
himself. With the division of the Roman Empire, the Byzantines claimed
Edirne and in 1361, Sultan Murat 1 added it to his empire. Its position
for almost 100 years as capital of the Ottoman Empire accounts for its
many historically and architecturally important buildings. With its mosques,
religious complexes, bridges, old bazaars, caravanserais and palaces, Edirne
is a living museum. The Selimiye Mosque is the city's focal point. Occupying
the top of a hill, Sinan's design reflects the classical Ottoman style.
Built
on the orders of Sultan Selim II, (1569-1575) it attests to the technological
abilities of the day and the genius of the Ottoman's master architect.
Built between 1403 and 1414 by Mehmet I, the Eski Mosque is the oldest
Ottoman structure in Edirne. The white marble of its portal contrasts with
the building's cut stone and brick masonry. Calligraphic inscriptions of
Koranic verses decorate the interior. The Ucserefeli
Mosque, built between 1438 and 1447 by Murat I, presages the great period
of Ottoman mosque architecture under Sinan and embodies both a new freedom
from restraint and advances in engineenng. The northwest minaret has three
galleries, hence the mosque's name, and was the highest minaret until those
of the Selimiye Mosque eclipsed it. Towards the end of the 15th century,
Beyazit II commissioned the architect Hayrettin to build him a complex
in Edirne which includes a mosque, Daarrussifa (hospital), medrese, kitchen
and store rooms. The mosque is square in plan and covered with a deep dome;
over 100 domes roof the remainder. The most important of the other buildings
is the Daarrusifa
which
stood out iriits time as a modem hospital with a unique and humane architectural
design. Little has changed in the Kaleici section of Edirne since the Middle
Ages. Narrow streets lined with houses wind through the area. The number
of small restaurants and cafes reflect the district's renaissance. Sinan
built several of the famous baths in Edirne including the Sokollu, Tahtalale,
Mezit Bey, Beylerbeyi and Gazi Mihal. His work is also seen in the Ahmet
Pasa Caravanserai and the Rustem Pasa Caravanserai of 1561. The latter
has been renovated and serves as a charming hotel. The old bedesten of
the early 15th century still functions as Edirne's main marlet. As you
drive around the area you will notice many lovely Ottoman bridges gracing
the Tunca and Meric Rivers.
Edirne
has retained many of its colorful traditions and customs. Every summer,
where the Tunca River divides, an emerald green meadow is created, called
Sarayici, where the Kirkpinar Greased Wrestling Contests are held. Shiny,
slippery bodies grapple to determine who will emerge as champion. As you
walk through the city and peer into the corners of the grocery stores,
you see blocks of white feta cheese, a local speciality Hardaliye, another
of the city's delicacies, is a grape drink mixed with mustard and marzipan.
Scented soaps, earthenware pots and straw baskets from Edirne make good
souvenirs. You will find it difficult to resist the beautiful embroidery
work of the local women. The Archaeology and Ethnography Museum traces
the history of the area from prehistoric to Byzantine times and exhibits
clothing from the late Ottoman period. At the Turkish Islamic Art Museum
examples of Ottoman artitectural details, calligraphy, manuscripts, Koratis,
weapons, glass and an imperial tent used on military campaigns are displayed.
On
the way to the Saroz Gulf in the Aegean Sea, you can stop at uzunkopru
to see an interesting bridge spanning the Ergene River, built by Murat
II in 1444. Its 174 arches, the highest of which is 12.28 meters, make
up its 1,354-meter length. The mild climate and beautiful surroundings
on the Saroz Gulf invite holiday makers for a break of relaxation. On the
northern edge of the gulf are the lovely lbrice and Erikli beaches. Here
hotel and guest-house facilities are plentiful and reasonably priced.
Enez (Ainos) was
an important port in ancient times today it lies 3.5 km. inland. Its origins
can be traced to the 12th century B.C. and was an important, settlement
during the Hellenic, Roman, Byzantine and Ottoman periods. Currently, it
remains an open air museum and was built by the, Kyme people and was known
as a colony of western Anatolian civilization Enez Castle has been restored
several times throughout history and is well worth a visit. There is also
a church dating from the 6th century, some carved tombs and a beach with
clear water. The people here are quite hospitable and Enez makes an interesting
stopover.
The
Yildiz (Istranca) Mountains divide the province of Kirklareli. Lush mountainous
landscape dotted with quaint houses transports you to an idyllic and trainquil
frame of mind. The city of Kirklareli's oldest mosque, the Hizirbey Mosque,
was built in 1383. The mosque complex includes a bazaar. Nearby stands
a hamam also built under Hizir Bey's patronage. The 14th century Kirklar
Memorial with its impressive 18 columns stands on Kirklar Hill honoring
the site where 40 soldiers lost their lives when Ottomans conquered this
area under the command of Murat I. The Archaeological Museum exhibits from
local excavations. Kirklareli's
Black Sea Coast is another place to enjoy beaches and good fish restaurants.
Igneada, 98 km east of Kirklareli, lies squeezed between its sandy shores
and the Yildiz Mountains. Kiyikoy (Midye) is another holiday resort town
with good accommodation picturesque dwellings from the Middle Ages; the
town and its land walls date from the Byzantine period. The Sokollu Mosque
in Luleburgaz, on the Edirne-Istanbul road is an exquisite work of Sinan's
that dates from 1570. The neighboring town of Babaeski also boasts a Sinan
building in the Cedi Ali Pasa Mosque. Vize (Byzia), an important Byzantine
center, houses of Kucuk Ayasofia Church and a castle, both dating from
the Byzantine period. If you are travelling north to Bulgaria, linger
for a few hours at the peaceful and green town of Derekoy, the last stop
before the border.