MONUMENTS
The ancient Hippodrome, the scene of chariot races and the center of Byzantine
civic life, stood in the open space in front of the Blue Mosque,
an area now called Sultanahmet. Of the monuments which once decorated it
only three remain: the Obelisk of Theodosius, the bronze Serpentine Column
and the Column of Constantine. Remains from the curved-end section of the
Hippodrome's wall can be seen on the southwest side of these three monuments.
Today the square forms the center of Istanbul's historical, cultural and
touristic activities. You should take particular note of the surrounding
wooden houses, particularly the 18th century ones on Sogukcesme Street.
Delightfully restored, they have new life as small hotels and one houses
a fascinating library of books on Istanbul. The Ahmet III Fountain, built
in 1729, stands at the entrance to Topkapi Palace. Deep overhang in caves
shade the water spouts where the parched could stop for a cup of refreshing
water. This highly ornate, free-standing fountain is a superb example of
the late Ottoman style. Mahmut II built the Beyazit Tower (85 meters high)
in 1828 as a fire tower. Today it stands within the grounds of Istanbul
University
The Bozdogan-Valens
Aqueduct, built in 368 A.D., supplied the Byzantine and later the Ottoman
palaces with water. Today part of the remaining 900 meters of double-tiered
arches straddle the major highway that runs through the old part of town.
The Istanbul walls, once an impenetrable fortification, stretch seven kilometers
from the Sea of Marmara to the Golden Horn. Restored recently, and many
times previously, these walls date from the fifth century and the reign
of Emperor Theodosius II. UNESCO has declared the walls and the area which
they enclose to be one of the cultural heritages of the world. The Galata
Tower, a Genoese construction of 1348, rises 62 meters high over the Golden
Horn. From the top you see a marvelous panorama of the Golden Horn and
the Bosphorus. In the eve]-ling tourists enjoy its popular restaurant,
nightclub and bar. Rumeli Hisari, or the European Fortress, was
built by Mehmet the Conqueror in 1452 prior to his capture of Istanbul.
Completed in only four months, it is one of the most beautiful works of
military architecture in the world. (Open every day except Mondays.) Known
as Leander's Tower, Kiz Kulesi is one of the most romantic symbols of Istanbul.
First constructed in the 12th century on a tiny island at the entrance
to Istanbul's harbor, the present building dates from the 18th century.
ISTANBUL
BOGAZI (BOSPHORUS)
A
stay in Istanbul is not complete without the traditional and unforgettable
boat excursion up the Bosphorus, the winding strait that separates Europe
and Asia. Its shores offer a delightful mixture of past and present, grand
splendor and simple beauty Modern hotels stand next to yali (shore-front
wooden villas), marble palaces abut rustic stone fortresses, and elegant
compounds neighbor small fishing villaces. The best way to see the Bosphorus
is to board one of the passenger boats that regularly zigzag along the
shores. You embark in Eminonu and stop alternately on the Asian and European
sides of the strait. The round-trip excursion, at a very reasonable cost,
takes about six hours. If you wish a private voyage, you can contact one
of the agencies which specialize in organizing day or night mini-cruises.
During the journey you pass in front of the magnificent Dolmabahce Palace,
farther along rise the green parks and imperial pavilions of Yildiz Palace.
On the edge of this park, on the coast, stands the Ciragan Palace, now
restored as a crand hotel. Refurbished in 1874 by Sultan Abdulaziz, it
stretches for 300 meters along the Bosphorus shore, its ornate marble facades
reflecting the swiftly moving water. At Ortaköy, the next stop, artists
gather every Sunday to exhibit their works in a streetside gallery The
variety of people create a lively scene; sample a delicious bite from one
of the street vendors. In Ortakoy, there is a church, mosque and a synagogue
that have existed side by side for hundreds of years - a tribute to Turkish
secularism and tolerance. Overshadowing Istanbul's traditional architecture
is the Bosphorus Bridge, one of the world's largest suspension bridges
linking Europe and Asia.
The
beautiful Beylerbeyi Palace lies just past the bridge on the Asian side.
Behind the palace rises Camlica Hill, the highest point of Istanbul. You
can drive here to admire the magnificent panorama of Istanbul as well as
the beautiful landscaped gardens. On the opposite shore, the wooden Ottoman
villas of Arnavutkoy contrast with the luxurious modern apartments of neighboring
Bebek. 
A
few kilometers farther out, facing each other across the straits like sentries
guarding the city, stand the fortresses of Rumeli Hisari and Anadolu Hisari.
The Gbksu Palace, sometimes known as Kucuksu Palace graces the Asian shore
next to the Anadolu Hisari. The second link between the two continents,
the Fatih Sultan Mehmet Bridge straddles the waterway just past the two
fortresses. From Duatepe Hill, on the European side you can admire the
magnificent panorama of the bridge and the Bosphorus. Below Duatepe, the
beautiful Emirgan Park bursts with color when the tulips bloom in the spring.
Opposite on the Asian shore is Kanlica, a fishing village now a favored
suburb for wealthy Istanbulites. Crowds gather in the restaurants and cafes
along its shores to sample its famous yogurt. Shortly after Kanlica and
Cubuklu is the Beykoz Korusu (Abraham Pasa Woods), a popular retreat. In
the cafes and restaurants you can enjoy the delightful views and clear
fresh air. on the European side, at Tarabya Bay, yachts seem to dance at
their moorings. The coast road bustles with taverns and fish restaurants
from Tarabya to the charming suburbs of Sariyer and Buyukdere. Sariyer
has one of the largest fish markets in Istanbul and is also famous for
its delicious varieties of milk puddings and borek (pastries). A little
further on past Sariyer, the narrow strait widens and disappears into the
Black Sea.
