THE LIGHT
RISES FROM EAST
(In the
Footsteps of Noah)
The
Toros (Taurus) Mountains which parallel 
Turkey's
southern border, and the Black Sea Mountains in the north join together
to form a mighty mountain range which defines the country's eastern border.
The tremendous diversity of the eastern and south eastern lands surprises
travellers: the red ochre plateau of Erzurum; the forests, waterfalls,
and green pastures of Kars and Agri; the permanent snow-cap on biblical
Mount Agri (Ararat) the immense Lake Van with its deep blue waters. Dwellings
and modes of life also vary greatly in this large region. Small, earth-roofed
houses, built close to the ground typify houses around Kars. Despite a
generally austere life, the people of the area are generous and hospitable.
The region's long and turbulent history has left monuments to its various
civilizations: Byzantine monasteries and churches, Seljuk mausoleums and
caravanserais, elegant Ottoman mosques and hilltop citadels. To the inveterate
traveler and 
lover
of adventure, this region of Turkey fascinates, 
astonishes
and informs. The national highway, the great trans-Anatolian axis road,
is the most direct route between Ankara and the Iranian border, and passes
through Sivas, Erzincan, Erzurum, Agri and Dogubeyazit. Erzincan, the principal
city of its province, lies 688 km east of Ankara on a fertile plain. The
highly decorated and hand-fashioned copper vessels and wares of Erzincan
maintain a long tradition of the area's fame in metalwork. Bolkar, a ski
slope 40 km to the west, provides facilities for winter sports enthusiasts.
Many of the magnificent bronze objects in Ankara's Museum of Anatolian
Civilizations were found nearby at the Urartian site of Altintepe, east
of Erzincan. At Tercan, the round 12th century mausoleum of Mama Hatun
with its beautifully carved stone portal is worth a detour off the main
road. Girvelik, in the same southeasterly direction, provides ideal picnic
spots where you can eat a packed lunch and relax to the sound of water
tumbling over rocks. Kemaliye, situated on the banks of the Firat River
is one of the most beautiful and green areas in the region. It is known
for its lovely countryside and scenic views; especially popular with trekkers.
Kemaliye is also known for its traditional homes with their artistic detail.
Karanlik Bogaz near Kemaliye is one of the best places for photo-safaris,
canoeing and rafting.
ERZURUM
Erzurum, 193 km east of Erzincan and the largest 
city
in eastern Anatolia, sprawls on a high plateau at an altitude of 1,950
meters. As you enter the city, the large Aziziye monument commemorating
the Turkish-Russian war will catch your eye. Although the collection in
the archaeological museum reveals much of the city's history and ancient
origins, it is Erzurum's architecture, which is in fact the city's best
museum. The city walls and fortress are reminiscent of the period of Byzantine
rule. And particularly important are the remaining Seljuk buildings - brilliant
examples of a fascinating aesthetic. The Ulu Mosque, built in 1179, has
an unusual form with seven wide naves. The Cifte Minareli Medrese, or theological
college, built by the Seljuk Sultan Alaeddin Keykubat in 1253, astonishes
with elaborate stone carvings on its portal and its majestic double minarets.
Behind the Cifte Minareli Medrese stands the Uc Kümbetler, a group
of three tombs, the most notable; that of Emir Saltuk. The 13th century
Hatuniye Türbesi, or mausoleum, was built for Sultan Alaeddin Keykubat's
daughter. The beautiful portal and richly tiled minaret of the 13th century,
Yakutiye Medrese reveals another facet of Seljuk architecture. You can
also see Ottoman buildings in Erzurum; the great architect Sinan left his
mark on the city with the Lala Mustafa Pasa Mosque.
PALANDÖKEN
While wandering around the city,
notice the local black stone (Erzurum, Oltu Tasi) which is used in jewellery.
The shops on the upper floor of the Tashan (Rustem Pasa Caravanserai) offer
the best selection of items. A road through splendid mountain scenery leads
to the winter sports resort of Palandöken, only 6 km from Erzurum.
This center has hotels, the longest ski run and the best snow quality in
Turkey, and is a favourite haunt of expert skiers. The glassy Tortum Lake,
120 km from Erzurum towards Artvin and the Black Sea, may be the most tranquil
sight in all of Turkey. Be sure to see the Tortum Waterfalls at the north
end of the lake, plunging from a height of 47 meters.
