IV. A Repertoire of Food from
the Great-Food Places
A
survey of the types of dishes according to their ingredients may be helpful
to explain the basic structure of Turkish cuisine. Otherwise there may
appear to be an overwhelming variety of dishes, each with a unique combination
of ingredients and its own way of preparation and presentation. All dishes
can be conveniently categorized: grain-based, grilled meats, vegetables,
seafood, desserts and beverages. Before describing each of these categories,
some general comments are necessary. The foundation of the cuisine is based
on grains (rice and wheat) and vegetables. Each category of dishes contains
only one or two types of main ingredients. Turks are purists in their culinary
taste, that is, the dishes are supposed to bring out the flavor of the
main ingredient rather than hiding it under sauces or spices. Thus, the
eggplant should taste like eggplant, lamb like lamb, pumpkin like pumpkin,
and so on. Contrary to the prevalent Western impression of Turkish food,
spices and herbs are used very simply and sparingly. For example, either
mint or dill weed are used with zucchini, parsley is used with eggplant,
a few cloves of garlic has its place in some cold vegetable dishes, and
cumin is sprinkled over red lentil soup or mixed in ground meat when making
"köfte" (meat balls). Lemon and yogurt are used to complement both
meat and vegetable dishes as well as to balance the taste of olive oil
or meat. Most desserts and fruit dishes do not call for any spices. So
their flavors are refined and subtle. There are major classes of meatless
dishes. When meat is used, it is used sparingly. Even with the meat kebabs,
the "pide" or the flat bread is the largest part of the dish alongside
vegetables or yogurt. Turkish cuisine also boasts a variety of authentic
contributions to desserts and beverages.
For
the Turks, the setting is as important as the food itself. Therefore, food-related
places need to be considered, as well as the dining protocol. Among the
"great-food places" where you can find ingredients for the cuisine are
the weekly neighborhood markets ("pazar") and the permanent markets. The
most famous one of the latter type is the Spice Market in Istanbul. This
is a place where every conceivable type of food item can be found, as it
has been since pre-Ottoman times. This is a truly exotic place, with hundreds
of scents rising from stalls located within an ancient domed building,
which was the terminus for the Spice Road. More modest markets can be found
in every city center, with permanent stalls for fish and vegetables. The
weekly markets are where sleepy neighborhoods come to life, with the villagers
setting up their stalls before dawn in a designated area to sell their
products. On these days, handicrafts, textiles, glassware and other household
items are also among the displays at the most affordable prices. What makes
these places unique is the cacophony of sounds, sights, smells and activity,
as well as the high quality of fresh food, which can only be obtained at
the pazar. There is plenty of haggling and jostling as people make their
way through the narrow isles while vendors compete for their attention.
One way Lo purify body and soul would be to rent an inexpensive flat by
the seaside for a month every year and live on fresh fruit and vegetables
from the pazar. However, since the more likely scenario is restaurant-hopping,
here are some tips to learn the proper terminology so that you can navigate
through the cuisine (just in case you get the urge to cook a la Turca)
as well as the streets of Turkish cities, where it is just as important
to locate the eating places as it is the museums and the archaeological
wonders.
