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An Introduction to Turkish Cuisine
"Do not dismiss the dish saying
that it is just simply food. The blessed thing is an
entire civilization in itself”
Abdülhak Sinasi
For those who travel to engage in
culinary pursuits, the Turkish Cuisine is worthy of
exploration. The variety of dishes that make up the
cuisine, the ways they all come together in feast-like
meals, and the evident intricacy of each craft
involved offer enough material for life-long study and
enjoyment. It is not easy to discern a basic element
or a single dominant feature, like the Italian "pasta"
or the French "sauce". Whether in a humble home, at a
famous restaurant, or at dinner in a Bey's mansion,
familiar patterns of this rich and diverse cuisine are
always present. It is a rare art which satisfies the
senses while reconfirming the higher order of society,
community and culture. A practically-minded child
watching Mother cook "cabbage dolma" on a lazy, grey
winter day is bound to wonder: "Who on earth
discovered this peculiar combination of sautéed rice,
pine-nuts, currants, spices, herbs and all tightly
wrapped in translucent leaves of cabbage, each roll
exactly half an inch thick and stacked up on an oval
serving, plate decorated with lemon wedges? How was it
possible to transform this humble vegetable to such
heights of fashion and delicacy with so few additional
ingredients? And, how can such a yummy dish also
possibly be good for you?" The modern mind, in a
moment of contemplation, has similar thoughts upon
entering a modest sweets shop where "baklava" is the
generic cousin of a dozen or so sophisticated sweet
pastries with names like: twisted turban, sultan,
saray (palace), lady's navel, nightingale's nest...
The same experience awaits you at a muhallebici" (pudding
shop) with a dozen different types of milk puddings.
One can only conclude that the evolution of this
glorious cuisine was not an accident, but rather, as
with the other grand cuisine of the world, it was a
result of the combination of three key elements.
A nurturing environment is irreplaceable. Turkey is known
for an abundance and diversity of foodstuff due to its
rich flora, fauna and regional differentiation.
Secondly, the legacy of an Imperial Kitchen is
inescapable. Hundreds of cooks, all specializing in
different types of dishes, and all eager to please the
royal palate, no doubt had their influence in
perfecting the cuisine as we know it today. The Palace
Kitchen, supported by a complex social organization, a
vibrant urban life, specialization of labor, worldwide
trade, and total control of the Spice Road, all
reflected the culmination of wealth and the
flourishing of culture in the capital of a mighty
Empire. Finally, the longevity of social organization
should not be taken lightly either. The Turkish State
of Anatolia is a millenium old and so, naturally, is
its cuisine.
Time is of the essence, as Ibn'i Haldun wrote, "The religion of the King, in
time, becomes that of the people," which also holds for the King's food.
Thus, the 600-year reign of the Ottoman
Dynasty and a seamless cultural transition into the present day of modern
Turkey led to the evolution of a grand cuisine through differentiation,
the refinement and perfection of dishes, and the sequence and combination
of the meals in which they are found. It is quite rare when all three of
the above conditions are met, as they are in French, Chinese and Turkish
Cuisine. Turkish cuisine has the added privilege of being at the cross-roads
of the Far East and the Mediterranean, resulting in a long, and complex
history of Turkish migration from the steppes of Central Asia (where they
mingled with the Chinese) to Europe (where their influence was felt all
the way to Vienna). Such
unique characteristics and extensive history have bestowed upon Turkish
cuisine a rich selection of dishes all of which can be prepared and combined
with others to create meals of almost infinite variety, but always in a
non-arbitrary way. This led to a cuisine that is open to improvisation
through development of regional styles, while retaining its deep structure,
as all create works of art do. The cuisine is also an integral aspect of
the Culture. IL is a part of the rituals of everyday life. it reflects
spirituality, in forms that are specific to it, through symbolism and practice.
Anyone who visits Turkey or has a meal in a Turkish home, regardless of
the success of the particular cook, is sure to notice the uniqueness of
the cuisine. Our intention here is to help the uninitiated employ Turkish
food by achieving a more detailed understanding of the repertoire of dishes
and their related cultural practices as well as their spiritual meaning.
Early
historical documents show that the basic structure of Turkish cuisine was
,already established during the Nomadic Period and in the first settled
Turkish States of Asia. Culinary attitudes towards meat, dairy products,
vegetables and grains that characterized this early period still make up
the core of Turkish thinking. Early
Turks cultivated wheat and used it liberally), in several types of leavened
and unleavened breads either baked in clay ovens, fried on a griddle, or
buried in embers. "Manti", (dumpling), and "Bugra," (the ancestor of "börek,"
or filled pastries, named for Bugra Khan of Türkestan) were already
among the much-coveted dishes of this time. Stuffing not only the pastry,
but also all kinds of vegetables was common practice, and still is, as
evidenced bv dozens of different types of "dolma". Skewering meat as well
as other ways of grilling, later known to us as varieties of "kebab," and
dairy products, such as cheeses and yogurt, were convenient staples of
the pastoral Turks. They introduced these attitudes and practices to Anatolia
in the 11th century. In return they met rice, the fruits and vegetables
native to the region, and hundreds of varieties of fish in the three seas
surrounding the Anatolian Peninsula. These new and wonderful ingredients
were assimilated into the basic cuisine in the millennium that followed.
Anatolia
is the region known as the "bread basket of the world." Turkey, even now,
is one of the seven countries in the world which produces enough food to
feed its own populace and still his plenty to export. The Turkish landscape
encompasses such a wide variety of geographic zones, that for every two
to four hours of driving, you will find yourself in a different zone amid
all the accompanying changes in scenery, temperature, altitude, humidity,
vegetation and weather. The Turkish landscape has the combined characteristics
of the three oldest continents of the world (Europe, Africa, and Asia)
and an ecological diversity surpassing any other country along the 40th
latitude. Thus, the diversity of the cuisine has taken on that of the landscape
with its regional variations. In
the eastern region, you will encounter rugged, snow-capped mountains where
the winters are long and cold, along with the highlands where the spring
season with its rich wild flowers and rushing creeks extends into the long
and cool summer. Livestock farming is prevalent. Butter, yogurt, cheese,
honey, meat and cereals are the local food. Long winters are best endured
with the help of yogurt soup and meatballs flavored with aromatic herbs
found in the mountains, followed by endless servings of tea. The heartland
is dry steppe with rolling hills, and endless stretches of wheat fields
and barren bedrock that take on the most incredible shades of gold, violet,
and cool and warm greys, as the sun travels the sky. Along the trade rotates
were ancient cities with lush cultivated Orchards and gardens. Among these,
Konya, the capital of the Selcuk Empire (the first Turkish State in Anatolia),
distinguished itself as the center of a culture that attracted scholars,
mystics, and poets from all over the world during the 13th century.
The
lavish and attactive cuisine that is enjoyed in Konya today, With its clay-oven (tandir)
(tanduri you know) kebabs, böreks, meet and vegetable dishes and helva
(halva) desserts, dates back to the feasts given by Sultan Ala ad Din Keykubat
in 1.237 A.D.
Towards the west, one eventually
reaches warm fertile walleys between cultivated mountainsides, and the
lace-like shores of the Aegean where nature is friendly and life has alwavs
been easygoing, Fruits and Vegetables of all kinds are abundant, including,
best of all, sea food! Here, olive oil becomes a staple and is used both
in hot and cold dishes.
The temperate zone of the Black Sea
Coast, to the north, is protected by the high Caucasian Mountains and abounds
in hazelnuts, corn and tea. The Black Sea people are fishermen and identity
themselves with their ecological companion, the shimmering "hamsi" a small
fish similar to the anchovy, There are at least forty different dishes
made with hamsi, including desserts! Many poems, anecdotes and foIk dances
are inspired by this delicious fish.
The southeastern part of Turkey,
is hot and desert-like offering the greatest variety of kebabs and sweet
pastries. Dishes here are spicier compared to all other regions, possibly
to retard spoilage in hot weather or as the natives say, to equalize the
heat inside the body to that outside!
The culinary center of the country
is the Marmara Region, including Thrace, with Istanbul as its Queen City.
This temperate, fertile religion boasts a wide variety of fruits and vegetables,
as well as the most delicately flavored lamb. The variety of fish that
travel the Bosphorus surpasses that of other seas. Bolu, a city on the
mountains, supplied the greatest cooks for the Sultan's Palace, and even
now, the best chef's in the country come From Bolu. Since Istanbul is the
epicenter of the cuisine, a survey of the Sultan's kitchen is required
to understand it...
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