THE
EASTERN BLACK SEA COAST
SINOP
Sinop
(192km northeast of Kastamonu) is one on the most beautiful natural 
harbors
of the Black Sea. It was founded in the seventh century by Miletian colonists
and was the birthplace of the third-century philosopher, Diogene the Cynic.
The town's citadel and the foundations of a temple dedicated to Serapis
date from that period. The Sinop Archaeology Museum exhibits several
beautiful golden icons and the 18th-century Aslan Torunlar Mansion Museum
displays ethnographical artifacts. Other important monuments include the
13th-century Alaeddin Mosque and the Alaiye Medrese. Excellent fish restaurants
along the charming fisherman's wharf serve tasty meals while brightly colored
boats bobbing in the water complete the picturesque setting. Sinop is also
known for its traditional nautical wooden carvings. Seaside hotels and
holiday villages provide accommodation in all price ranges. Some 35 km
to the southwest, high in the mountains, lie the yaylas (mountain plateaus)
of Guzfindik and Bozarmut. At an elevation of 1,350 meters, these green
pastures with their summer residents offer a glimpse into a traditional
way of life. Gerze is situated on a peninsula 40 km east along the coast
and is surrounded by parks and beaches. Farther along the coastal road,
you arrive at Yakakent, a fishing village with clean, sandy beaches. Camgölü,
a large forest which slopes to the sea, has camping sites, guest facilities
and restaurants.
BAFRA
Turning inland, the road takes you
to Bafra (30 km east of Yakakent) a town famous for its tobacco, caviar
and thermal springs. Its 13th-century hamam and 15th-century mosque-medrese
complex are sights worth seeing. Ikiztepe, 7km northeast of Bafra is an
archaeological site from the early Bronze Age that uncovers much of Black
Sea regional history. The artifacts, including jewelery, which is especially
important, can be seen in the Samsun museum.
SAMSUN
Samsun (418km northeast of Ankara)
is a modern industrial city that has served as a major port for centuries.
Products from all over the region are exported from this city, which annually
hosts the Samsun Trade and Industrial Fair. Samsun found itself at the
center of the Turkish War of Independence on May 19, 1919, when Atatürk
landed here to organize the defense of Anatolia. The Atatürk Museum
houses many objects and documents relating to the war. An equestrian statue
honoring the founder of the Republic stands in a prominent place in the
city park. The 14th-century Pazar Mosque and the 19th-century Büyük
Mosque reflect two different Turkish architectural styles and are interesting
to compare. The Archaeology Museum not only displays the finds from Ikiztepe
but also artifacts from Dündartepe and Amisos, as Samsun was known
in ancient times.
ORDU
The
charming little port of Ünye (93 km east of Samsun) is one of the
nicest holiday towns on the eastern Black Sea and justly boasts of its
excellent beaches and camping facilities. Do not miss the extraordinary
18th-century town hall. Within easy reach of Ünye is the beautiful
Camlik Beach. After Fatsa (22 km east of Ünye), another holiday town
on the road to Ordu, the ruins of the Byzantine Jason Church, now a museum,
stand on the Camburnu promontory. Legend has it that the Argonauts landed
here on their quest for the Golden Fleece. Fish restaurants serving the
finest tea found in the region dot the 50km of scenic road to Ordu. Sea
snails, a regional speciality, are particularly delicious at Yaliköy.
Returning from the Babylonian campaign, the survivors of "Xenophon's Ten
Thousand" left Anatolia from Ordu in their retreat to Greece. Today, it
is a beautiful port situated at the foot of a forested hill. In the Pasaoglu
Konak (mansion), now the Ethnographical Museum, see how a rich and influential
19th-century family lived. Hazelnut production centers around Ordu and
every September the town hosts the Golden Hazelnut Festival. Be sure to
sample the delicious chocolate nut candy. It is worth spending sometime
at an 18th-century church, 2km of town, and the pretty beach of Güzelyali
is worth visiting. 58 km further south, at an altitude of 1,250 meters,
lies the yayla (plateau) of Cambasi offering beautiful mountain views.
The yayla of Keyfalan, at 2,000 meters, is another popular summer destination
for local residents.
GIRESUN
The ruins of
a Byzantine fortress offer a wonderful panorama of Giresun. It was from
this city, ancient Cerasos, that the Roman general Lucullus exported the
first cherry trees to Europe. An 18th-century church (now a museum) makes
a short visit worthwhile. Outside of town, Giresun Adasi (Giresun Island)
is said to have once belonged to the Amazons. A ruined temple supports
this theory. The Aksu Art and Culture Festival is a yearly event in May.
To get off the beaten track, take an excursion to the high mountain yaylas
of Bektas or Kümbet. Between
Giresun and Trabzon, are the quaint coastal towns of Kesap, Tirebolti,
Görele, Vakfikebir and Akcaabat squeezed between wooded mountains
and the Black Sea waters. Stop at Görele for delicious, submarine-shaped
meat and cheese 'pitas', at Vakfikebir for the best butter and at Akcaabat
to sample the best köfte (meat rolls).
