THE BLACK SEA REGION
The
vibrant green of Turkey's lush, humid Black Sea Coast surprises those
who
imagine the country to be nothing but barren steppe. From the European
border with Bulgaria to the Georgian border, dense pine forests cover the
mountaintops while lush vegetation and bountiful crops grow in the lower
elevations and valleys. Along the coastline, mile after mile of beautiful
uncrowded beaches offer sun, swimming and relaxation. In the springtime,
delicate wild-flower blossoms carpet the rolling meadows of the eastern
hills. The wooden houses in fishing villages and mountain hamlets alike
preserve indigenous and traditional architectural styles. The humid climate
and fertile soil encourage cultivation of a variety of crops including
tea, tobacco, corn and hazelnuts. The magic of such a diverse landscape
proves irresistible to any friend of nature, whether hiker or mountain
climber or canoe enthusiast; whether you go in by mountain bike or by jeep
safari. Archaeological excavations from the early Bronze Age settlements
at Ikiztepe in Samsun Province have uncovered evidence of the region's
earliest inhabitants. The Hittites, Miletians, Phrygians and, according
to Homer, the Amazons all colonised parts of the coast. Alexander the Great
in his world conquest also brought the region under his sovereignty. Eventually,
it was incorporated into the Roman and then the Byzantine Empire. The 15th
century saw the greater part of the area come under the Ottoman rule of
Sultan Mehmet II. The Black Sea is easily accessible to tourists and provides
a wide range of hotels and restaurants at a variety of prices.
The
Yildiz (Istranca) Mountains bisect the province of Kirklareli. Lush mountainous
landscape dotted with quaint houses transport you to an idyllic and tranquil
reverie. In the city of Kirklareli the oldest mosque is the Hizirbey Mosque,
built in 1383. The mosque complex includes a bazaar. Nearby stands a hamam
(batil) also built under die patronage of Hizir Bey. The 14th-century Kirklar
Memorial with its impressive 18 columns stands on Kirklar Hill honouring
the site where 40 soldiers lost their lives when the Ottomans conquered
this area under the command of Murat 1. The Archaeology Museum exhibits
finds from local excavations. Kirklareli's
Black Sea Coast is another place to enjoy beaches and good fish restaurants.
Igneada, 98km east of Kirklareli, lies sandwiched between sandy shores
and the Yildiz Mountains. Kiyiköy (Midye) is another holiday resort
town with good accommodation and picturesque dwellings from the Middle
Ages. The town and its walls date from the Byzantine period. The best site
to visit in Midye is the historic St. Nicholas Rock Monastery.
The Sokollu
Mosque in Lüleburgaz, on the Edirne-Istanbul road, is an exquisite
work of Sinan that dates from 1570. The neighboring town of Babaeski also
boasts a Sinan building in the Cedid Ali Pasa Mosque. Vize (Byzia), an
important Byzantine center, houses the Kücük Ayasofya church
and a castle, both dating from the Byzantine period. If you are travelling
north to Bulgaria, linger for a few hours in the peaceful and green town
of Derekoy, the last stop before the border.
ISTANBUL
Also
on the European Black Sea coast, only 35 km from Istanbul, are the sandy
beaches,
and hotels, motels and camping facilities of Kilyos. Across the Bosphorus,
on the Asian shore, 5ile's (71 km from Istanbul) long sandy beaches, overlooked
by the remains of a Genoese Castle, attract many visitors. The excellent
restaurants and nightlife make it a popular weekend retreat for Istanbul
residents. Cotton blouses and shirts (Sile Bezi) are sewn and embroidered
here. Originally founded by a Polish prince as a home for Polish exiles,
Polonezköy (25 km from Istanbul) has been transformed into a relaxing
resort with guest houses and restaurants serving a delicious selection
of fresh local produce. Inland from the coast, the rolling hills and peaceful
woods make an excellent area for horseback riding. Agva (50 km east of
Sile), on the banks of a river as well as on the shores of the Black Sea,
is surrounded by lovely scenery, ideal for a camping holiday. Kerpe, Kefken
and Karasu are three quaint fishing villages east of Agva.
Delightful
restaurants and limpid water draw a constant stream of visitors.
Inland,
between Ankara and Istanbul, is Bolu (262 km from Istanbul and 192 km from
Ankara), an important provincial center with an impressive 14th-century
Ulu Mosque and modern thermal facilities close at hand. The Bolu Archaeology
and Ethnography Museum has artifacts from the Hittite, Roman, Byzantine,
Seljuk and Ottoman periods. Southwest of Bolu is the popular and relaxing
Lake Abant resort, set in lovely alpine surroundings at an altitude of
1,500 meters. Istanbul dwellers often escape to the lake for a weekend
of fresh air and exercise. In the Köroglu Mountains is Kartalkaya,
one of Turkey's major ski resorts. In the summer you can stop for a picnic
at Gölcük Lake. The breathtakingly beautiful Yedi GoIler (Seven
Lakes) National Park lies north of Bolu. Nearby, the town of Mengen has
a reputation for its good cooks and holds the annual Chefs' Festival of
in August, featuring traditional Turkish specialities. The sites around
Konuralp (53 km from Bolu) the ancient Prusa ad Hypium, continue to yield
artifacts from both the Roman and Byzantine periods, which are on display
in the local museum. Among the ruins, the Roman theatre is not to be missed.
Back on the coast, the lovely beach and comfortable guest houses and hotels
at Akcakoca ensure that it remains a popular holiday resort. Near the town,
you can explore the remains of a Genoese castle now set amid hazelnut groves.